SURF!!!!

I went out, it was pretty calm, but the waves were about waist high and breaking pretty nice. After about 15 min out there, I was hit with a typhoon. It started pouring rain, the wind was going nuts, and the waves picked up to about head high!! I had some pretty fun drops, but the board (a 9 ft Bic board, actually made by Bic the pen company out of the same material) was not waxed and I was barefoot so any time I tried to turn the board at all I slipped off. I must have looked ridiculous. As cool as "surfing a typhoon" sounds, it wasn't that crazy. An average day in Oregon is much more intense. It was fun though and nice finally getting out there.